This 1969 Pamphlet is the Ultimate Guide to Growing Cannabis

From preparation to double harvesting, The Complete Cannabis Cultivator is the ultimate guide to growing cannabis.

This 1969 Pamphlet is the Ultimate Guide to Growing Cannabis

Back in the 1960s and 1970s, cannabis cultivation was as taboo as it got. No respected book publisher would talk about how to grow marijuana - let alone describe the steps in detail. For the most part, it was one of those topics that was never broached except in closely guarded circles, in hushed voices. 

Marijuana cultivation was a barely discussed topic - except for one book that became infamous in the United States for its complete coverage of growing, nurturing, and using every part of the pot plant. This book became known as the textbook for cannabis growers, enjoyers, and dealers. 

It was called The Complete Cannabis Cultivator. For your personal entertainment and education, we decided to publish the full contents of this book online. Enjoy!

The intention of this book is not to demonstrate any one successful way to grow marijuana, but rather to inform the reader of various methods appropriate to any of the many growing conditions which circumstance may provide. Whether you are raising your plants out of doors, in a greenhouse, a living room, basement or closet, the information in this manual, if properly applied, will give you the best quality marijuana possible. It covers every phase of pot farming from seed sprouting to harvesting. It contains detailed information on soil conditions, fertilizers, watering, lighting, concealing, prevention and cure of plant diseases, insect attacks and other threats to the survival of your crop. Growing secrets of farmers all over the world-from India to Michoacan-are disclosed in this book. Also included are special articles on breeding methods to develop seeds which will produce only female plants, how to get some use out of "useless' male plants, and a chart to determine the exact time of flowering under different growing conditions.

Warning: It is illegal in many countries to grow, possess, sell or use marijuana. Even the seeds may be regarded as contraband. The author, editor and publisher of this book do not wish to encourage the violation of any existing laws. This manual is printed for its educational value and as a humble addition to the total of mankind's knowledge.

Dedicated to our beloved leader MR. R. M. NIXON without whose Mexican-American policy this book might not have been necessary.

Cannabis sativa (better known as marijuana) has been cultivated in many parts of the world for thousands of years. For this reason there are many different methods of growing it. Because of the extreme hysteria and superstitious paranoia surrounding marijuana most scholars have been reluctant to publish information on its cultivation. The United States Department of Agriculture has printed a pamphlet on growing hemp (the relatively non-stoning male plant). But the techniques in that book are virtually useless for raising stoning female plants. If the instructions in the government bulletin are followed you may be sure that your harvest will be tough, stringy and lacking in resin. It is the resins of the plant (tetrahydrocannabinol) which get you high.

Our own book, The Complete Cannabis Cultivator, is the most thorough book ever written on the subject of marijuana farming. It includes techniques for growing the plant in many different environments: indoors and outdoors with natural sunlight or artificial illumination. If the information in this manual is followed you can be assured of a successful crop of top quality marijuana.

To humans the resins of the marijuana plant are a mildly psychedelic euphoric and relaxant. To the plant itself they are a protective substance which guards the flowering tops against the hot sun, especially in dry climates. The hotter, sunnier and drier the conditions are the more resins will be produced. The resins' behavior is much like that of the sun-tanning pigments of humans. Techniques which utilize this principle to its fullest are described in detail in some of the following chapters.

Preparation for Planting

  1. Select only large, dark seeds. Do not use light green ones because they are unlikely to sprout.

  2. Soak seeds overnight in warm water. This will speed and increase the percentage of germination. If you have trouble with seed rot from fungus or soil-borne microorganisms you can add 5% ethyl mercuric phosphate to this water. Seed rot is not a great problem in most areas. If you want to save time sprouting your seeds, place them between layers of wet newspaper and leave them in an oven at low temperature for 12 hours. Use about 10 news sheets on each side of the seeds and check often to see that they do not get dry. At the end of 12 hours remove papers from oven and let them sit for 24 hours. Be sure that they stay wet. At the end of 24 hours remove seeds from newspapers. They will have sprouts on them about an inch long. Plant them in the manner described in step 4 but see that the leaves stick out above the soil. This technique accomplishes in 36 hours what ordinarily takes over a week.

  3. Purchase a flat box from a nursery or substitute with a wooden cherry crate. Line the bottom of the box with 1 inch of gravel. Cover with 3 inches of soil. The best soil for growing marijuana is loose silt loam with good drainage. The acidity of the soil should measure not less than pH 5 and not more than pH 7. Soil testing kits are available from most nurseries and cost about $7.00. If soil is too acid cautiously add lime to soil and keep it watered for at least 2 weeks before planting. This gives the lime a chance to work into the soil. Do not use a lot of manure. Too much can burn the young roots. It is best that the soil in the flat box be the same as that to which the cannabis will later be transplanted. This lessens the shock to the plant from transplanting.

  4.  Poke holes 4 inch deep in staggered rows about 2 inches apart as shown in Illustration 1. Place one seed in each hole, cover with soil and tamp soil lightly. Keep soil well moistened but do not drench. The seeds will sprout within ten days. If the plants are to be grown out of doors planting is best started in early spring right after frost has ended. Seedlings should be kept indoors until weather is fairly warm. Many farmers believe that if the full moon is in Scorpio at the time of planting the crop will be more successful.

  5. Prepare soil 2 weeks before planting. If outdoors spade a foot and a half deep. Any fertilizer used should be well mixed with soil. Modest amounts of manure, ammonium sulfate, compost, and/or nitrate of soda may be used.

  6. In approximately 2 weeks after sprouting the plants should be about 6 inches high. It is now time to transplant. Caution must be taken to minimize the shock of transplanting. If you are growing your crop outside be sure that the season of frosty nights has passed. Transplant a few hours before sunset so the plants don't have to suffer the hot sun just yet. Make holes in the ground about the size of a tennis ball. The holes should be no less than 2 feet apart. Rows should be staggered as in the flatbox. See Illustration 1. Lift each plant from flatbox with the tip of a trowel making certain that you do not injure the roots. Place a plant with plenty of soil still around roots into each hole and gently pack more soil around it. Sprinkle liberally with water but do not drench. Keep soil well watered for the first few days following transplanting, especially during the day. If the sun is very hot during the crucial days after transplanting the plants may wilt at mid-day. If this happens cover each plant with an inverted paper bag (preferably white because it reflects the heat). Tear a small opening on both sides of bag for ventilation and anchor to ground with small rocks or pegs. Paper bag tents similarly used but without the vents can be employed at night if there is a sudden frost.

    If you are raising your plants indoors or in a greenhouse, transfer your plants first to 3-inch flower pots. When the plants are 10 or 12 inches tall transplant to 5-inch pots. When they are 2% feet tall transfer to 8-inch pots. When they are 4 feet tall move them to pots that are 12 inches or more in diameter. Graduating sizes of pots in this manner trains roots against trying to grow straight downward.

Water

Up until the time of flowering the soil should be kept moderately moist. Do not water indoor plants from the top. Excessive wetness in the soil around the base of the plant can cause stem rot. Place flower pot in dish or tray filled with water and let moisture soak upwards to the roots. A small amount of plant vitamins may be added to the water once a month. If you think that your marijuana needs more fertilizer use Atlas Fish Emulsion Fertilizer. It is rich but does not burn the plants. A pint of it can be purchased for about $1.19 from most nurseries or from Sears. Add one tablespoon to one gallon of water and water your plants with this mixture once a month. Because of the limited volume of soil from which the roots may draw nutriments, liquid fertilizer supplements should always be used on potted plants.

Sun

Marijuana thrives on sunlight. Hot dry desert or mountain climate climate produces grass with the strongest resin content. Hot moist climate produces tough fibery grass with less resin. Out of doors the important thing is that the plants must not be crowded. The farther apart they are planted, the more exposure they will get. About 3 feet apart should do fine. To get more sun power for your plants lay an inch thick layer of beach sand or white pebbles on the ground about the plant. This increases the sun's rays by reflection. When planting indoors keep in a greenhouse or by a window where it will get the longest possible daily exposure to the sun. Three hours is the absolute minimum of daily sunlight on which a marijuana plant can survive. A large sheet of aluminum foil placed inside of the window behind the plant will reflect more sunlight upon it.

For various reasons you may not want the neighbors to be able to see your crops. A sheet of translucent plastic can be stapled over the window or greenhouse. Cast vinyl is best because it is durable and admits the sun's growth-stimulating ultra-violet rays. Polyethylene also lets in the proper light but tends to become brittle and crack after 4 or 5 months in the hot sun. Polyethylene is less expensive, however. These materials can be located under PLASTICS in the yellow pages of the phone book for most cities or they may be ordered from EDMUND SCIENTIFIC CO., 600 EDSCORP BUILDING, BARRINGTON, NEW JERSEY 08007 (40'x40' $5.50 postpaid: stock number 89,079).

Artificial Light

If a window or greenhouse does not give your plants a long enough period of daily light the length of exposure can be extended with artificial light. For instance, if a window admits only five hours of sunlight add seven hours or more of artificial light making a total of twelve or more hours. If there is no available sunlight or if you wish to grow your crop away from curious eyes-in a basement or closet-artificial light may be used exclusively. The simplest light source is a standard 100watt bulb. Several of these may be strategically placed about your growing chamber. Allow one bulb for every four full-size plants. A light bulb should never come closer to a plant than 12 inches. Plants grow toward the light, therefore you will have to watch that the leaves do not get so close to the bulb that they might be burned. This can be corrected most simply by moving the flower pots. Arrange some system of ventilation in the growing chamber so that the temperature does not exceed 100 degrees fahrenheit.

Another excellent source of light-purchasable at any hardware store-is a 150-watt Blue COLORFLOOD light. These are of the standard screw socket variety and are conically shaped like a photoflood lamp with a built-in reflector. These bulbs tend to concentrate their light and one lamp will not cover as great an area as a standard 100-watt bulb. Many growers have claimed unusually good results from using blue COLORFLOOD lamps for 24 hours a day during the first month after transplanting and then switching to standard 100-watt bulbs. Starting immediately at this point shorten the artificial day by 3 hours per week until 12 hours is reached. That is: first week 21, second 18, third 15, fourth 12. Now it can be left permanently at 12 hours. This shortening of the day's light may seem opposed to the marijuana plant's

longer the plant takes to flower (see chart on page 15). Marijuana's growth and resin production can be further stimulated by the addition of a few well-placed Sylvania GRO-LUX tubes. They are readily available from Sears-Roebuck in 15, 20 or 40 watt sizes at $2.99 each and fit standard fluorescent fixtures. For really superior results at a slightly higher price use NATUR-ESCENT tubes. Their color spectrum very nearly matches that of the sun. They may be ordered from Edmund Scientific Co., 600 Edscorp Bldg., Barrington, New Jersey 08007. They cost $13.00 per set of 4 tubes and come in the following sizes: 15 watt, 18 inches long, stock number P-71,151; 20 watt, 24', P-71,152; 40 watt, 48’’, P-80,124. Since the price per tube is the same it is better to order the largest size provided that you have the appropriate fixtures.

Whatever kind of light you choose for your growing chamber the following hints will insure the best results: Light should come from overhead. Walls and ceiling of the growing chamber should be painted white to give maximum reflection. Rolls of aluminum foil should be laid on the floor between the plants. When the plant first develops flower stalks cancel all watering and increase the number of lights in the chamber (do not increase the length of exposure). Allow the general temperature of the chamber to rise to a full 100 degrees fahrenheit during the 12 hours of daily illumination. At this stage of development a sun lamp (conical screw base type available at Sears-Roebuck or any drug store for under $10) may be turned on for sixty minutes each day during the sixth hour of illumination. It should hang overhead about 2 feet from the tops of the plants. All of these steps cause the potent cannabinol resins to be drawn up through the stalk to the flowering parts at a time when most of the plant's energies are focused upon its sexual development. This process should be carried out with some caution, however. If the plants start to wilt give them a little water and check to see that the temperature is not too high.

* If you are growing more than just a few plants it would be more economical to place a light blue gelatin filter or sheet of cellophane in front of your standard 100-watt bulbs. In the later stage of growth use either unfiltered light from bulbs (they tend toward the red part of the spectrum) or use light red gelatins or cellophane. Blue light stimulates leaf growth; red promotes flower development.

Enemies

Marijuana has few natural enemies. Wild animals frequently devour the young transplants. A fence will keep out deer and other large animals. If your transplants are bothered by small burrowing animals you will probably have to resort to strychnine gopher pellets. Most insects will not bother marijuana. Even locusts and grasshoppers will leave it alone. Spiders occasionally nest in the branches. They will not harm your plants, but their webs may prove to be a nuisance. Do not spray them with insecticides. Marijuana may be harmless to smoke, but DDT is dangerous. A few toads in your garden will keep the spider population down. Sometimes, when the preferred hot, dry climate is missing, the plants may be susceptible to attacks by mites or by leaf

worms. The mites can be eliminated by using a systemic insecticide (available at Sears). The poison goes into the plant, destroys the mites, then disappears after seven days. This type of insecticide is used safely on edible vegetables. Just be sure not to use it within seven days of harvest. Leaf worm can be controlled by spreading a vegetable dust such as Chlordane (also at Sears) on the ground around the plants.) If you have been using toads to control spiders be sure to remove them before applying any of these poisons.

Dry rot and stem rot sometimes attack marijuana. Diseased plants may be saved if treated immediately with COOKE'S FUNGICIDE or any comparable product. Stem rot usually will not occur in dry climates if the point at which the root crown meets the stem is kept above the ground and if moisture is not allowed to gather at this place. For potted plants see watering instructions on page 4.

Weeds should be constantly removed because they sap the nourishment from your crop. Wild vines and parasitic climbers may attempt to strangle your plants. Uproot these as you would any other weeds.

Intercropping

If you are growing a large amount of marijuana out of doors you may for various reasons want to intercrop your plants; that is, grow them among rows of some other crop. Since plants excrete waste products into the surrounding soil the influence of one crop upon its neighbor can be significant. The excreta of one plant can be either toxic or nourishing to another. For instance, if you intercrop marijuana with spinach the spinach will thrive on the cannabis excreta whereas the cannabis will find the spinach excreta somewhat detrimental to growth. Other crops which are toxic to marijuana are rye, pepperweed, garden cress, and common vetch. On the other hand marijuana does remarkably well if planted next to cabbage, mustard, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, European yellow lupine, tree lupine, beets, or corn. Because corn is tall and can hide the cannabis it makes a specially good intercrop. Care should be taken, however, that the rows are well spaced so that the corn does not block the sun from the marijuana.

How to Distinguish the Male from the Female


How to Distinguish the Male from the Female

In order to distinguish the non-stoning male from the stoning female, one must wait until the flower stalks have begun to form. In the photograph above, the taller plants on the left are male and the shorter plants on the right are female.

Male Flower Tops

Male Flower Tops

Male flower stalks extend above the leaves and bear in bundles flowers which have five stamens each and calyx composed of five overlapping segments.

Female Flower Tops

Female Flower Tops

Female flowers are inconspicuous and are crowded at the axils among clusters of at the tip. Individual flowers have a very thinly membranous calyx applied to the ovary.

To Get the Most Out of Outdoor Plants

Water deprivation during the flowering stage as described earlier should be used on outdoor as well as indoor plants. Here is a method of growing used in India: When the plant is about three feet tall break off all of the lower leaves. This concentrates the resins and the plant's energies on the upper leaves and flower portions. When flower stalks first appear and you can distinguish males from females destroy all males. Experienced farmers of India claim that the resins of the female tops are weakened by pollination from the males. Also at this time stop watering the plants. As was explained before this draws the resins to the tops. When the flowering tops have matured fully and all of the flowers have opened bend and crease the upper third of each plant, but do not break it off. Let the bent and hanging tops dry on the plant for a week or two. When dry they can be harvested. If rain should threaten while tops are sun-drying harvest immediately and complete drying indoors.

Two other methods of harvesting are the Double Harvest and the Family Tree techniques:

Double Harvest

After the tops of the female plants have flowered and begun to form seeds snip off the flower clusters just above where they join the main leaves. Dry these flower tops in the sun for a week or two. Meanwhile a second crop of flowers will be produced where the old ones were clipped. These should take not much more than a month to mature. When they begin to form seeds uproot the whole plant and hang upside down to dry. Doing this will cause nearly all of the resins to run to the tops and leaves. When dry, remove the tops. They are of the highest quality. Next remove the remaining leaves. Although they are not quite as strong as the tops they are still of worthy quality. Save the stalks and stems. Later in this book we will explain how to use them to add more power to your grass.

The Family Tree

If your circumstances do not allow much space for agriculture, but you would like to satisfy your moderate pot habit all year round with one or two household plants follow these instructions:

When the plant first sprouts it will have a pair of single seed leaves. Above these will grow a pair of compound leaves with three leaflets each. As soon as new leaf shoots above these are formed, clip them off as shown in Illustration 2. This will cause the plant to branch out. When each of the two new branches have developed a set of threeleaflet leaves and started to form new leaf shoots above these, snip off the new shoots. This practice can be repeated five or six times on a single plant. All of these clippings can be dried and smoked. As a result of these repeated pruning many branches will be formed. These will spread outward giving the plant a full bushy appearance. A few of the lower leaves may be harvested every several days for smoking. When flower clusters develop and mature these should be harvested and dried. Meanwhile new clusters will appear in their places. The purpose of this operation is to train the plant to grow outward instead of upward. Given the proper care a single plant can keep you supplied with a joint a day for a whole year. One warning should be given, however. There is a 50% chance that any seed planted will be a male. Since you will not be able to determine the sex of a plant until the flower stalks form it is wise to grow several bushes to insure that at least a few are females.

Breeding Method to Develop Seeds Which Will Produce Only Female Plants

One of the great difficulties in raising cannabis is that one can not readily differentiate the potent female from the relatively useless male until the plant approaches its budding stage. This problem wastes time, energy and space in your garden or greenhouse because half of your crop will be unusable males. It is therefore worthwhile to take advantage of a unique characteristic of marijuana whereby a harvest of all female seeds may be produced. That is, all of the plants raised from these seeds will be highly stoning females. Because this technique is so unusual an explanation of the function of different steps will be interjected in italics at appropriate places in the instructions.

  1. Arrange some form of shading so that plants receive only seven hours or direct sunlight each day. This can easily be done by masking the sides of your greenhouse with the right amount of black paper. To find the correct position for the light shield place it on the morning side of your greenhouse so that the 9 a.m. sun just breaks over it. At 4 p.m. erect the second shield on the afternoon side of the greenhouse so that the sun just goes behind it. Because this seven hour exposure must be maintained throughout the life cycle of the plants it will be necessary to make corrections for the changing length of the day as the season advances. Check it about once a week. Raise at least 20 plants in this enclosure. These plants will be used as the male mates.

    Female marijuana plants are capable of producing male flowers and vice versa without changing the vegetative characteristics of the plant's sex. The occurrence of this phenomenon can be greatly stimulated by shortening the period of sunlight exposure to seven hours.

  2. Raise another batch of seedlings which are not shielded and receive the normal 12 hours or more of daily sunlight. These will be used as the female mates in this process.

    The normal full length exposure to sunlight will insure that virtually no male flowers will occur on the female plants in this group.

  3. Watch the seven-hour plants carefully as they approach maturity. Remove and discard all male plants from this group as soon as they are discernible. Do not judge them by the flowers because as has been previously stated some male flowers are expected to occur on female plants. Instead you must judge by the shape of the bud stalks as shown on the center pages of this manual.

  4. Also remove and discard all male plants from the twelve-hour sunlight group. When clusters of female buds first begin to appear on the female twelve-hour plants carefully brush each bud cluster with a soft nylon, sable or camel's hair brush. This is to remove any stray pollen from the buds. Immediately after brushing cover each bud with a polyethylene bag and seal around the stem below the bud cluster with a band of Scotch Tape. This is to protect the flowers from accidental pollination.

  5. When male buds appear on some of the female seven-hour plants carefully and systematically remove each unopened male bud with a pair of tweezers. Brush each male bud with a small sable brush to remove stray pollen and store in a stoppered vial. Place only a few buds in each vial. Do not crowd them. Also remove and discard all female buds from these seven-hour plants and wait for new buds to appear in their places. Mutilation as well as shortened sunlight exposure tends to stimulate sex change in cannabis. When the new buds appear clip and store any males in a vial as described above.

  6. In a day or two the anthers of the buds in vials will open and release pollen. Carefully transfer pollen to the stigmas of the bagged female flowers on the twelve-hour plants. A toothpick can be used to transfer the pollen.

  7. Wait a few weeks until seeds develop from the pollinated flowers and have fully ripened. Unless there has been accidental contamination by pollen from other plants this harvest will yield a batch of seeds which will produce a 100% crop of female plants.

    The crossing of normal female flowers produced on female plants with unique male flowers cultivated on female plants results in a harvest of all female seeds because the pollen of these special male flowers contains only the female (X) chromosome and lacks the male (Y) chromosome.

There are a few additional points to concern oneself about when practicing the above technique: Individual flowers which undergo sex change through short light exposure or mutilation are sometimes hermaphroditic (having both male and female sex organs) and/or sterile. If some of the males don't produce pollen there is no need to fear that you have made a mistake. Another thing: Long exposures to light tend to slow the flowering process. A seven-hour plant can mature between 10 days and 2 weeks earlier than a 12-hour plant. If the normal length of a day is longer than 12 hours the gap will be greater yet. This might mean that when the males release their pollen the females will not yet be ready. For this reason you may wish to start your female mates about 10 days earlier than your male mates. Because the length of the day varies with different seasons or locations, a chart is printed here which shows how much the age of flowering is affected by the length of the day: (INSERT GRAPH HERE)

What to do With Male Plants

Throughout this manual we have recommended that male plants be discarded. Let us now modify that statement: In comparison to the potent female plant the male plant has very little resin content, but that is no reason to discard it entirely. Here are several alternate possibilities for economically minded gardeners:

  1. The pollen, flowers and tops may be smoked for a mild high.

  2. The lower leaves may be smoked as a harmless substitute for tobacco. These are especially useful for people who are trying to break the cigarette habit because tobacco is addicting whereas marijuana is not.

  3. A delicious and gently euphoric tea may be brewed from the leaves and stems of the plant.

  4. The resins may be extracted from the leaves and stems and used to manufacture connoisseur quality super-grass as described on page 11 of The Marijuana Consumer's and Dealer's Guide, available at any store where The Complete Cannabis Cultivator is sold. Or it may be ordered from:

    FLASH, P.O. Box 16425, San Francisco, Calif. 94116

  5. If nothing else, the male plant can at least be put back into the soil to act as fertilizer for next year's crop.

Remember: Male plants die shortly after they have finished producing pollen. If you intend to make use of them you must harvest them before they die.

Happy planting! Happy harvesting! And many happy smokes! The time grows near when we can grow our own legally. Let every law enforcement agent of Irish descent remember that even the blessed shamrock was at one time forbidden by the British to be grown on Irish soil. May the Breath of God flourish upon our planet.

Stone Kingdom's Statement to the People

Stone Kingdom's Statement to the People

Up until now we have mostly produced books and other products relating to the psychedelic subculture; books on growing better grass, extracting and manufacturing psychedelics, and finding herbs which get you high. This has been a joyful and significant task we feel, and do intend to bring you many more informative and useful books on the subject. Stone Kingdom’s work, however, is not confined to the study of getting stoned. That is only a beginning. The psychedelic era blew our minds, turned our heads around and opened our eyes to a new dimension of living. A door has been opened for us leading to a new world which we can create; one liberated from the narrow views, petty values and destructive behavior from which we are now evolving. Before us now lies a road of redemption from the insanities and torturous which man has inflicted upon himself and his brothers. We have suffered so long that many of us out of habit still insist that the world must always be as it has been. Yet reason and instinct tell us that we must create a change now, or else we may perish. We are at the threshold of–not a dream, but a great and wonderful reality. We have potentially mastered our environment with knowledge and technology. We must now master ourselves so that we may use our new tools for the betterment of life–not for its destruction. We have gone too far to back from this responsibility. Nor should we want to, for it is a responsibility which will not burden us, but free us. All of us cannot understand these changes at once. Some will learn sooner; others later. But those who were sooner blessed with this awareness are also blessed with the task of helping the rest to understand. For five glorious and exciting years we turned on many of our brothers and sisters to marijuana and the psychedelic drugs. But this was not an end. It was only a beginning; a means of awakening those who were ready. Acid, grass and other chemicals of awareness gave many of us a glimpse of new possibilities, but these substances cannot by themselves create a new earth and a new mankind. This we must make real ourselves. What of the millions of so called “straight people” who cannot be induced to turn on chemically? Are they to be left behind? Must they be denied their birthright of awareness simply because they refuse to smoke a joint or swallow a purple tablet? The answer, of course, is a most emphatic NO. They too are our brothers and sisters. They too are crew members of the Spaceship Earth. The new world, the new universe is also theirs, but they have yet to recognize it. We must teach ourselves and each other to walk the new road. Help them to help us. We need each other. Stone Kingdom wants to help you to help us all. We cannot forever wander in a psychedelic wonderland. Nor can we horde our knowledge and awareness. New discoveries are being made concerning nutrition and heath and their influence on life, love and happiness. We have made giant steps towards the conquest of mental and physical disorders which have plagued us for ages. We are now on the verge of controlling that inevitable killer. Needless to say, powerful organizations are doing their best (or worst) to deny us knowledge of these things. Still clinging to the outdated illusion that life can belong to only the few on top and that money is the key to power and survival, these “dictocrats” linger in their own secure and private hell where they refuse to accept the obvious fact that life with all of its knowledge and possibilities belongs equally to every one of us. Many of our books in the near future will disclose new discoveries for the betterment of life on earth; ways to vastly improve our environment both internal and external. Health at the moment is our primary concern: Health of our minds and bodies; health of our planet and society. These things are essential if we are to build a solid foundation for the world of live to which we aspire. Stone Kingdom is, among other things, and information pool. We gather information and spread it among our brothers and sisters. We are not a get rich organization, but we do require money as a tool to do our work. We do not seek donations. We offer you something of value in our books. Your dollar for each book is your expression of interest in our purpose–your honest vote in favor of the validity of our work. Most of the books which we have written up to this time were ones you could not easily share with your “straight” friends. They would only have been met with rejection. The new books, however, should interest everyone. We hope that you will use them to turn on as many people as possible. If our work and our purpose interests you, send us your name and address. We in turn will keep you always informed about the new books which we produce.

Power, love and wisdom to the people,

Stone Kingdom

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